What kind of oil to pour in 2 tbsp. Japanese diesel engines

12.11.2021

“For the manufacture of parts for the engine, impeccable work is needed. I doubt that mechanical engineering is so advanced in Russia…” (Rudolf Diesel)

These words were spoken by the famous German engineer, who invented the compression ignition engine at the end of the 19th century, in response to the proposal to Russian industrialists to produce such engines in Russia. And yet, it was here that at the beginning of the 20th century, at the Kolomensky plant in St. Petersburg, they mastered the production of marine diesel engines at a time when Germany itself had already abandoned them after a series of unsuccessful experiments. The inventor then recognized the great potential of Russian industry: “What a pity that in Europe we are behind you” (!)

Ironically, it was only at the end of the 20th century that small-displacement diesel engines appeared in Russia for “wide consumption”. And since there are still no light engines on heavy fuel, it was necessary to get acquainted with them thanks to the same foreigners. We are mostly of Japanese origin, and then Korean with an eye on the Japanese.

But the Asians, as it turned out, did not understand everything about Diesel's legacy. In any case, they did not take into account the Russian specifics of operation. And our people had to go through dieselization hard impromptu. In close, so to speak, cooperation: some selflessly test, others correct mistakes and draw conclusions.

Yes, diesel - it sounds. Sounds proud. Strong even traction, moderate appetite, more affordable fuel, theoretically high resource - all this is in perfect harmony with the ideas of practicality and unpretentiousness in operation, which is especially valuable for utility vehicles such as a jeep or a cargo-passenger station wagon, not to mention purely commercial models. In general, the advantages are obvious. And what are the disadvantages? About them below.

However, below are just generalized results of the experience of one of the Irkutsk services - PolytechAvtoGrad. Service masters have been engaged in complex repairs of foreign cars since the beginning of the 90s, they have higher technical education and scientific titles, they teach at the university. Literally so - today they give lectures, and tomorrow all day at the belly of a disassembled engine. In general, the overhaul of Japanese and Korean diesel engines has long been one of the main practical exercises.

Science and life

When there were no normal spare parts, they mastered the technology of low-temperature plasma spraying to restore rubbing surfaces. By the way, developed at the Polytechnic University at the Department of Welding Production. How many engines have been brought back to life in this way can not be counted, but the fact is eloquent: repair know-how is still successfully used in particularly difficult cases.

But the appearance of normal spare parts did not bring repair well-being. Truths were revealed to the masters, which diverged from the usual logic of malfunctions. I had to master the repair, for which there are no spare parts in principle, for example, to restore cracked block heads. By the standards of engine manufacturers, this is nonsense, and in some cases impossible in principle, but, as they say, need creates demand. However, a lot has been revealed.

If in general terms, then all diesel engines, as a rule, were bent from several root causes, which were both individually, but more often in a friendly alliance with a great synergistic effect. These are low-grade and dirty fuel, low-quality oil, a dead (and often structurally imperfect) cooling system and high speeds on the highway. Moreover, if we take the most common Asian concepts of light diesel engines in our country, namely pre-chamber ones with aluminum alloy heads, then the degree of influence of the first two elements is not as critical as the last two, which lead to the main trouble - overheating, and this is a death sentence for the head and other troubles almost without cases of pardon.

And characteristically, it doesn’t really matter whether it’s a turbocharged diesel or atmospheric “breathing”. The compressor itself is a forced and dependent thing, a humble servant, basically lives as the "system" orders. Although his work strains this system, it does not contradict it at all, on the contrary, it heals. To take the energy of exhaust gases, doomed to an inglorious fate, and direct it to increase the efficiency of the engine - what is better? Harmony!

But what really leads to the certain death of a diesel engine is speed. And he honestly warns about this with his limited working range, early "shut up" during promotion. But how are we? I got into the left lane, pressed the trigger all the way, and now the arrow had gone beyond 140. I had no idea what processes were currently taking place inside the motor.

And they actually stop there. The engine just can't keep up with itself! Unlike gasoline, classic diesel lives by its own special nature. It is inert, the processes of lubrication and cooling of parts in it are, as it were, inhibited. If it is “stoked” to the full, then the harmony of the functioning of the body will be disturbed. This is something like a theory of time and matter change at speeds close to the speed of light: the car “flew away” far and quickly, while the diesel engine remained “in place” and aged a lot.

Other stories directly illustrate the above: “I’m walking along highway 160,” the owner of a far from old diesel Prado explains, “suddenly there is a knock, the engine does not pull, then it completely stalls, in short, he suddenly died.” Then the strongest scuffs in the cylinders are discovered!

Off-road, where the regime is static, diesels are in their element, but on the highway it’s like in a foreign monastery. And here the antifreeze, heavily diluted with water and air pockets, exacerbates everything. Normal antifreeze at least has a high boiling point, and with water it begins to bubble early and undercool the hottest and most “inert” parts.

No more than 110 km/h - this is the maximum speed for a diesel car recommended by our practice. In theory, such a speed limit should be minted in front of the driver's eyes or forcedly limited. But Japanese automakers are not kamikazes. They have something in the market, everything is correct, everything is calculated to the "mullimeter". For three or four years or even five years, passenger diesel engines are “sharpened” unambiguously. Then it all depends on the design features and how the car has been operated for these three or four years. But this knowledge, as on the table of a pathologist, is already being opened on the tables of capitalists.

Squishy

There is a direct dependence of the total resource of diesel engines on their working volume. And there is such a thing as maintainability. A certain group of engines has developed, which have a relatively short service life, and after which they are unprofitable to repair - it is often better to replace them completely. These include many 4-cylinders up to 2.0 liters and a little more, installed on cars, minibuses or minivans of a small class. Notorious 2C, 2CT, 3C, 3CT from Toyota, CD-17, CD-20, LD-20 from Nissan, R2, RF from Mazda, and 4D65/68 from Mitsubishi in the same category.

They have a factory resource somewhere up to 300 thousand. If you come to us with a real mileage of up to 100 thousand, then under favorable operating conditions they can still please you with work, but often they end up with not such a mileage, and without knowing the “favors”. Therefore, rather unexpectedly for owners of “fresh” cars, they can “stand up” due to CPG wear or a split and behaving head.

After the overhaul, up to 140-180 thousand can still go out, the maximum is fixed up to 230 thousand, but the repair itself turns out to be expensive, since you have to change or restore a lot of parts. The 2ST turned out to be especially unsuccessful in this company - both weak in design and difficult to repair.

What exactly are they accused of? In many ways, the fault, of course, lies with the notorious "conditions", but the question is also in constructive endurance. And a specific example will never keep you waiting. Here is a nice minivan Toyota TownAce Noah, only 1997, and already stands with the hood up and the head removed from the 3ST diesel (2.2 liters). The head is in a deplorable state: finger-thick cracks in the bridges between the valves, possible cracks in the prechambers, as well as cavitation wear of surfaces in the working chamber area.

The first - from the weakness of the head, which could not endure load conditions for a long time and some problems with the cooling system, that is, obvious overheating. The second is an academic example of the efforts of our wonderful sulphurous diesel fuel, which, in company with breaking through "antifreeze", arranges a real acid bath in the combustion chambers. Why the metal, designed to withstand high pressures and temperatures, begins to literally “eat away”, like wood by termites.

Failures in the power supply system also probably had their help here, so, perhaps, it was not far before the burnout of the pistons. The verdict will most likely be as follows - replacing the head, since it simply does not make sense to brew and repair such damage.

Serednyaks

The group of diesel engines, on which the “shock” part of our fleet rests, belongs to the more enduring and maintainable, more precisely, even repairable. These are also 4-cylinder engines, but about 2.4 to 3.0 liters in volume. Do I need to say what layer of cars they combine? Legion. No, the army! After all, here are popular middle-class SUVs, and light commercial vehicles. After a high-quality overhaul, the middle peasants still go both 250 and 300 thousand km.

But not everything is so simple with them - the world of the middle class is complex and diverse, and their karma is not sugar. Being common under the hoods of prestigious jeeps, they provoke more high-speed feats, after which they endow not only broken gaskets and split heads, but also scuffs in the CPG and tension in the timing. Moreover, all this can come back to haunt Japan, but we respond very quickly.

Of this cohort, the most common, since it is Toyota, but far from problem-free are the 2.4-liter 2LT and the newer 3.0-liter 1KZ, now “fashionable” for the latest generations of HiLux Surf, Prado or HiAce Granvia. Both are turbocharged, but that doesn't matter as the same problems are seen in naturally aspirated 2Ls and even 3Ls. Just those two, as they say, are at the forefront of the popularity rating.

So, it was noticed that after 7-8 years of life, these diesel engines tendentiously “say goodbye” to the heads. And since the purchase of second-hand cars also falls at about this age, an appeal has already arisen: if you take a car with such a diesel engine, buy a spare head. It will come in handy in a not so distant time, and perhaps in the very near future, literally on the haul from the market home. As it happened, for example, with the Rostov ferrymen who drove Granvia with 1KZ from the East and already in Zima realized that the rising temperature and boiling antifreeze would not allow them to “reach out” to the house. I had to hold out with a turn to Irkutsk, in tow, where they replaced the split head.

Theoretically, a more voluminous 1KZ with the same degree of forcing has a longer resource than 2LT, but, apparently, it does not tolerate overheating better. In addition, it turned out to be much more whimsical to repair. If cracks in the 2LT head are repairable in almost 100% of cases, then in 1KZ only in half of the cases - if the cracks are only in the bridges between the valves. If the hull is from prechambers, then nothing can be done, and the worst thing is that they cannot be detected outside of work on the engine. It used to heal cracks in the jumpers, put the head, and she continued to "siphon" antifreeze.

In this regard, it should be said about the preventive diagnosis and prevention of such problems. The loss of "antifreeze" is often perceived as a problem with the radiator, and they are perceived in services. There is an example when a 1994 HiLux Surf with 1KZ had the cooling system repaired three times, eliminating the loss of antifreeze, and at that time it was already burning out with might and main through cracks in the head.

First of all, the loss of antifreeze must be “looked for” in the expansion tank - with a damaged head, there will be a “steam room” and a “jacuzzi” there. Needless to say, like diesel engines with a camshaft belt drive, both need timely replacement of the belt - when the pistons break, they fight with the valves.

Capricious

The popular Mitsubishi Pajero and Delica SUVs have taken root widely with two diesel engines: the overage 2.5-liter 4D56 and the newer 2.8-liter 4M40. They also took root not without problems, and due to the different design, each in its own way. Moreover, 4D56 on the “head” is not so “dead”, as they often say about it. It is hardly worse than Toyota, and maybe stronger, although it definitely cannot stand strong overheating.

But there are enough other weaknesses and unnecessary worries: weak rocker arms and camshaft housing, increased wear of the cylinder-piston group. And then there is the balance shaft, which, as an important gentleman, is driven by a separate strap. Some ignore its replacement, but in vain - when it breaks, it falls under the camshaft belt, possibly just replaced, it either breaks or slips, but the result is the same: the pistons meet the valves and fatal destruction.

At the same time, the real role of the balancer, which dampens second-order vibrations at idle, seems petty: on our fuel, the vibrations of all diesel engines still seem to be equally high, 4D56 does not show any advantages over simpler Toyota diesels in this regard. Therefore, there is a recommendation to completely remove this strap, it is unlikely that without it the engine resource will become lower than fate destined.

But the relatively modern 4M40, in addition to being more powerful and high-torque, is another, in principle, more advanced in terms of reliability. There is already a chain in the camshaft drive, but the main thing is the exclusive technology of “reinforcing” the cylinder mirror in the area of ​​​​the top dead center, as you know, in the most critical wear.

It's not clear exactly what the method is, whether it's a special heat treatment or cermet inclusions, but the cylinders in this part have clearly visible "dotted lines" in a checkerboard pattern that really benefit. By 4M40, unlike its predecessor, there are no complaints about the CPG resource, unless the oil is oversaturated with soot and dust dirt - a wonderful abrasive. Again, in the event of an overhaul, such cylinders are hardly subject to restoration.

But after all, this branded “chess”, of course, was discovered only during autopsies? Yes, because even weaker 4D56 turned out to be on the “head” of 4M40. Punches the gasket and cracks quite often. Perhaps due to the fact that the high-powered 4M40 provokes more high-speed drive, and the pre-chamber aluminum head here does not have such a margin of safety as the cylinders. But what's more offensive - and the chain did not become a panacea in achieving the unpretentiousness of the timing. A typical disease is its stretching and possible breakage! So, if the steel “rustling” of the chain is heard in the general noise of the diesel, it is better to change it, but it will cost more than changing the belt from the “old man” 4D56.

That's who from the Japanese cohort of 4-cylinder middle peasants is really strong on the “head”, so this is the Nissan low-powered cast-iron diesel engine of the TD series, widely known for Terrano SUVs, pickups and trucks. If from Toyota with 2LT comes in for head repairs 2-3 cars per month, then from Nissan with a common TD 27 for the same amount, but for a year! Very tolerant of overheating. At the same time, there are no belts, no chains - the lower camshaft, everything is driven by gears and rods. Iron cargo concept! It seems the most that neither is an example of vitality and unpretentiousness?

Yes, but other problems are typical here - increased wear of the piston and timing parts: camshaft cams, rocker shafts, valve lifters. Again, these statistics may be due to the typical manner of operating "indestructible" engines with low-grade oil. And in this sense, often Nissan TDs show a textbook example of the irreversible collapse of a diesel engine in our conditions.

When the piston is worn, and often due to high speed loads and (and) dust, when scuffing is formed, more gases break through into the crankcase and excess pressure is created. More oil vapor enters the fuel through the ventilation system, and a mixture literally black with oil begins to be injected into the cylinders. Carbon deposits on pistons and valves intensify, the engine starts to make noise, shake, smoke, consume oil and fuel, and not pull. In short, "bend". The owner begins to fill in the cheapest oil, after which nothing can stop the avalanche-like systemic crisis of the diesel engine.

Special

And the fact that oils, despite similar quality designations, are actually different, has long been confirmed by comparative practice. For example, there was a case of an identical overhaul of identical Korean diesel engines from Kia Besta minibuses operating on the same route in the same mode. After repair, good oil was poured into one, and cheap into the other.

Identical results, as advertising likes to say, did not happen! Worked on a cheap one, about a year later, I had to disassemble it due to the knock of the crankshaft and bore it under the liners of the next repair size. The one that worked on a good one also had to be disassembled with almost the same mileage, but the liners there were in excellent condition, like new ones. Another thing is that the reason for the disassembly was already different - in the breakdown of the valve seat.

Yes, Korean diesel engines produced under Japanese licenses should not stand out in any way, but there are some specific points. For example, standard diesel engines for Kia Besta, structurally corresponding to Mazda 2.2-liter diesel engines, do not have a high resource, but diesel engines in Hi Besta or Topic are already a wonderful example of gigantic performance. The fact is that with a working volume of 2.7 and 3.0 liters, they have a crankshaft from a 3.5-liter SL diesel engine, known from the 2-ton Mazda Titan trucks.

Their resource is excellent: even after Korea they are able to nurse us up to 300-400 thousand, and after a major overhaul, the same number and not rarely up to 600 thousand, if you do not save on oil. But the problem with the head remains - when overheated, it knocks out the valve seats, after which the fragments break the pistons and liners. If necessary, saddles have to be strengthened with special treatment. Actually, the heads of Japanese Mazda diesel engines also do not like overheating, although the piston head is quite reliable and maintainable. Most diesels have cast-iron sleeves of a floating type, that is, they are easily removed and inserted without any complications during break-in.

And in this they differ from the Japanese "king of diesels" - Isuzu. Its widespread truck diesel engines with a volume of 4 to 6 liters have a very high resource, but are relatively expensive and difficult to repair. They have steel thin-walled sleeves, which are installed by pressing. We can still bore such sleeves, but we can’t honing them, so we have to change them to new original ones, which are very expensive. Moreover, when pressing in, such sleeves acquire a certain faceted shape, which is why a high oil consumption is observed during the grinding of parts, and this can last up to 20 thousand mileage.

If we talk about Bighorn SUVs, then in diesel versions they were good only until 1998. The well-known 3.1-liter 4JG as a whole is quite strong and reliable engine, it could even endure water hammer without any special consequences, although it is also relatively expensive to repair. But after 1998, Isuzu made a breakthrough with its new 4GX1 diesel, equipped with common-rail ultra-high pressure direct injection. And immediately everything turned upside down.

Engine efficiency is excellent, reactions like a gasoline engine, typical diesel inertia is no longer observed, but the resource and maintainability are already useless. This can be seen from the ubiquitous rubber seals, including nozzle cups, the inaccessibility of diagnostics, and the unsuccessful power supply scheme. If the plunger pair of the high-pressure fuel pump (naturally, not in-line) wears out, then diesel fuel begins to seep into the oil pan, diluting the oil with all known consequences.

One such diesel engine has already been “capitalized”, the pump of another was changed, which costs $1600. At the same time, it was necessary to correct the design flaws of Japanese minders in favor of the survivability of the diesel engine, namely, they came up with the idea of ​​separating the fuel priming system in such a way that diesel fuel no longer fell into the sump. But all this does not justify the new generation engine, which is alien to our traditional notions of "mileage".

So Nissan in the latest versions of Terrano also distinguished itself with a new ZD30 diesel engine with a common-rail system, although the service masters have not yet worked closely with it. Maybe the design is more successful and reliable, or maybe it just hasn’t happened yet due to its low prevalence. Probably everything is ahead.

Aksakals

And briefly about those that keep the glory of diesel and the most honorable SUVs. Row sixes. The most successful example of resource and maintainability remains with 1HZ and its modifications, known from the Toyota Land Cruiser. Despite the upper shaft and its belt drive from the injection pump, this is a perfectly balanced design without any frank weaknesses.

Firstly, this is one of the few diesel engines that starts well in the cold, and with proper maintenance it can work up to 500-600 thousand without visible output in the piston! And only dirty or low-quality oil can kill CPG much earlier. However, problems with the head may also arise before this period - both cracks due to overheating, and cavitation wear due to sulphurous diesel fuel and problems with fuel equipment.

Nissan's lower TD42 was even less often "at receptions", perhaps due to a noticeably lower prevalence. He also cannot name any frank weaknesses, except for those problems that haunt the 4-cylinder TD in terms of increased timing wear. Still, Nissan's 4.2-liter "cast iron" is much more enduring than its "little brother" - the 2.8-liter RD28 inline-six, which has head reliability at the level of 2LT or 4D56.

What to say in conclusion? Perhaps it remains to give some advice and considerations from professionals for those who have or are about to buy a diesel car. As for other discoveries in the field of the heritage of Rudolf Diesel, then we will have to return to them for sure more than once.

Vasily Larin

If you take the Japanese second-hand, and especially trucks, then their diesel engines are already well “rolled” in their homeland, and in our country they often begin to smoke and mope, seemingly in quite good external condition. After all, no one knows that instead of selling values ​​​​on the odometer there were numbers two or three, or even four times more. And for some reason, it is customary for us to keep diesels on an oil diet, they say, since the volumes of gas stations are large, then you need to fill in something easier and less often.

But what is more striking is this: if you interview the owners of diesel cars, you get a strange picture - many refuel as they have to, as long as it is inexpensive. That is, from cheap fuel trucks, from tractors, stolen substandard fuel. I must say, at the same time, technology often shows miracles of survivability, but in general it turns out that such an attitude is not yet a reason to blame everything on fuel.

At the same time, such a trend is obvious: the fleet of diesel vehicles is becoming larger and more complex, the model range is being updated constructively, the specific power is growing, and with it the requirements for fuel quality. The volumetric demand for diesel fuel is also growing, of course, at an unprecedented rate. According to some reports, in our region over the past year, only official retail sales of diesel fuel have increased by at least a third! The popularity of diesel fuel can already be seen from the price tags at gas stations, it goes beyond the category of widely available fuel.

At the same time, there is a tendency to increase the illegal circulation of diesel fuel, including frankly substandard ones. Illegal structures immediately respond to increased demand, with which no one can cope to the end.

Meanwhile, factory-made Russian diesel fuel can be quite decent. For example, modern GOST TU for DZECH brand fuel (diesel winter environmentally friendly) regulates fairly high physical and chemical characteristics. Thus, the limiting filterability temperature (beginning of waxing) should not be higher than -25°C, there should be no mechanical impurities and water at all, and the most critical quality indicator - the mass fraction of sulfur should not exceed 0.05%.

It must be said that this parameter is not the highest in terms of sulfur when compared with the best foreign varieties, but the progress is obvious. For example, with the appropriate motor oils, such diesel fuel is acceptable for any modern Japanese and European diesel engines serviced on time.

With only one proviso that the fuel reaches retail in this quality, delivered and stored in accordance with all the rules, tested in laboratory conditions, with a genuine quality certificate for compliance with GOST, TU, etc. By the way, winter diesel fuel is produced using a more expensive factory technology using a special fractional distillation method. And the bodybuilders “release” it by mixing summer diesel fuel with lighter products, in other words, with gasoline fractions. Filterability in this case can somehow be ensured, however, the lubricating properties of the fuel and the cetane number will be lost, and dirt with water will certainly be present during such mixing.

Therefore, probably, diesel drivers, taught by bitter experience, no longer rely on the “omnivorousness” of engines, but are trying to decide on some proven gas stations.

4Aside from sulfur, water remains the worst enemy in diesel fuel. The ideal option for refueling is in separate containers from good gas stations and then into the tank through a mesh after a long sludge.

5Diesel engine oils should not only be changed more often, but also have the following basic parameters: high dispersant and anti-wear properties, stability and, in general, high resistance to the detrimental effect of “polishing” of cylinders (occurs with excessive accumulation of soot and dust). Road dust is the strongest abrasive, and it often gets into diesel cylinders due to leaks in the air path. Watch out!

6 Do not add water to the cooling system, do not fill in suspicious antifreeze and keep an eye on the expansion tank - this is an indicator of the condition of the diesel engine.

7Before you give the moping diesel into the arms of the Wynn’s cleaning machine, it would be good to do a general system diagnostic - isn’t it time for a more serious repair right away?

8Diagnostics - diesel is suitable for repair or it is better to change it entirely, it is not expensive. The main thing for the owner is to be able to distinguish bad sounds in the characteristic diesel noise in order to visit specialists in time.

9 The use of fuel additives and cleaning procedures for the fuel system is not forbidden, but only in strict accordance with the instructions and reliable means (Hi Gear and Wynn's products have proven themselves well, for example).

10When you buy a second-hand diesel car, keep funds in reserve for a possible overhaul.

Quite often, after buying a Toyota car with a 1C, 2C, 2C-T diesel engine, owners begin to be tormented by questions - which butter And how necessary flood in engine summer And winter? Also, when to pour, after what time or after what mileage of the car?

For diesel engines 1C, 2C, 2S-T Toyota vehicles must use oils according to API classification. Recommended oils class CD, CE, CF.
Which oil to use viscosity(SAE) depending on the season (winter, summer, autumn, spring) and temperature?

  • From minus 7 ° C and above, an oil with a viscosity of 20w-50 is recommended;
  • From minus 12 ° C and above oil 15w-40; from minus 18 ° C and above, fill in oil 10w-30;
  • From plus 10 ° C, and below, it is better to use oil with a viscosity of 5w-30.

Oils can be used from different manufacturers with the specified characteristics. As for the use of oils for diesel engines from Russian manufacturers, it is better not to use them.

Oil change intervals for diesel Toyotas with 1C, 2C, 2C-T engines

Note: when operating a car (engine) in extreme conditions (in the mountains, at high temperatures and high dustiness), engine oil should be changed twice as often.

How to check the oil level in a 1C, 2C, 2C-T engine?


To do this, you must perform the following steps:


How to change the oil in a 1C, 2C, 2C-T engine on Toyota?

In order to change the oil in the engine, you must perform simple steps in the following order:

  1. Park the car on a flat place;
  2. Warm up the engine, then turn it off;
  3. Open the engine oil filler neck to remove the cover;
  4. Unscrew the oil drain plug from the bottom of the engine on the oil pan and drain it into a container;
  5. Replace the gasket with a new one and tighten the plug on the pan.
  6. Pour fresh oil into the engine in accordance with the filling capacities (see below);
  7. Reinstall the oil filler cap;
  8. Once again check the oil level and make sure there are no leaks;
  9. Check the oil level and make sure there are no leaks with the engine running.

I pay special attention! Be sure to change the engine oil filter when changing the oil periodically.

Based on the requirements of a car engine, engine oil is selected according to two main criteria: API performance level and SAE viscosity.

Which one is better to use?

Motor manufacturers at the design stage are determined with brands of oils depending on operating conditions and design features. After that, life tests of engines are carried out and recommendations for use are issued. So, before choosing, you need to look into the instruction manual, what exactly is needed. The oil indicated in the instructions is the correct choice.

If you do not want to fill in the original branded oil, then you can get by with non-original ones. And in order not to lose the warranty, you should choose it with the approval and approval of the auto concern. The approval of the auto manufacturer is one of the main guidelines when choosing. The designation of approval indicates not only the name of the brand of the car, but also a special index, which is comparable to what appears in the automotive documentation.

Russian legislation does not restrict the right of a car owner to use technical fluids of any brand. The main thing is that the product specifications comply with the manufacturer's recommendations. In the event of a breakdown of the motor, which was filled with non-original, but meeting the basic requirements of the oil, the dealer can refuse warranty repairs only if the examination establishes that it was counterfeit.


Use the oil recommended by the manufacturer. If you choose on your own, then it is selected according to two main parameters: by group and quality class. It would also be helpful to know.

SAE classification

The main property of engine oil is viscosity and its dependence on temperature over a wide range. Here is the standard SAE classification: 10W-40. The first designation "10W" indicates the application temperature, and "40" the viscosity. We will talk about each parameter separately.

The most noticeable numbers on the canister speak of the viscosity of the oil - this is the SAE classification. Two numbers separated by the letter W indicate that it is all-season. The first digits indicate the minimum negative temperature at which the engine can be cranked. For example, when designating 0W-40, the lower temperature threshold is -35 o C, and for 15W-40 it is -20 o C. The number after the hyphen indicates the permissible range of viscosity changes at 100 o C.


Operating ranges of winter, summer and all-weather oils


With an average climate, it is recommended to use the "universal" 10W - it will fit most cars. If the winters are severe, then oil of a class of at least 5W should be filled in (best would be - 0W). For summer operation, 10W is suitable.
  • with vehicle mileage less than 50% from the planned resource (new engine), oils of classes 5W30 or 0W20 must be used. This is due to the fact that new engines have no wear, all clearances are minimal, so the bearings work at a lower viscosity.
  • with a car mileage of more than 50% from the planned resource (technically serviceable engine), it is advisable to use oils of class 5W40. This is due to the fact that at high wear, the bearing capacity is compensated by an increase in viscosity.

Modern motors require low viscosity oil, because. it has low energy saving properties and saves fuel. Liquids with a viscosity of no higher than 30 are poured from conveyors. If the mileage of the machine is high and increased consumption is noticeable, then oil with a higher viscosity index should be filled in.

API classification

The classification of oils according to the conditions of their use and levels of performance properties has been repeatedly supplemented, but the principle of division into two categories - "S" and "C" has been preserved. Category "S" (Service) includes oils for gasoline engines, category "C" (Commercial) - designed for diesel engines.

API performance levels are subdivided into "S" categories in ascending order of quality into classes (SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM and SN). The further the second letter is from the beginning of the alphabet, the better. For gasoline engines, the most modern is the SN marking, and for diesel engines - CF. To designate universal oils that are used for gasoline engines and diesel engines, a double marking has been adopted, for example, SN / CF.

All fluids with a quality higher than SL can be classified as energy-saving - they save fuel. The difference in real operation will be 2-3%. You hardly feel it.


The oil of the latest API classification should be selected. The packaging must have a marking designation not lower than class SM or SN. It is this class that gives the best engine performance and reduces waste consumption.

The next step is to choose a brand. There is a wide choice here: domestic oils are comparable to many foreign ones - after all, modern base oils and additive packages are used in their production. The main thing is not to run into a fake and buy in company stores. Or choose in cans that are difficult to counterfeit.

We took three fully synthetic imported motor oils with SAE 5W-30 viscosity from leading manufacturers occupying the lion's share of the domestic market - ExxonMobil, Shell and Castrol. To this trinity, the not so common, but no less famous Motul oil was added.

How did you experience? On each of the oils, a specially prepared bench engine was spinning in the specified modes for one hundred and twenty hours, while comparing its characteristics at various stages of testing. The motor is a domestic eight-valve VAZ‑21114 with injection, with a modified control program and an oil cooling system for pistons.

Why is the engine not foreign? Test conditions do not allow. The technique requires before the start of testing and after them to open the motor, measure, defect, photograph and weigh the parts. And modern non-Nashensky motors are not subject to disassembly-assembly - the crankshaft cannot be removed there. More precisely, you can remove it, but putting it back is already prohibited.

After a fixed time, we took - three times - samples of the oil to assess the rate of its aging. Changes in the physicochemical parameters of the oil, as well as the content of wear products in it, were monitored. And the opening of the motor clarified the idea of ​​​​deposits and wear.

To eliminate doubts about possible fakes, we sent fresh oil samples to the laboratory to determine the basic physico-chemical parameters and compared them with the indicated manufacturers. If they match, then the oils are real, not fake. I was surprised by something else: the initial parameters of all four oils are almost the same. Are they from the same barrel? From different! This became clear after measuring the dynamic viscosity over the entire temperature range. But first, let's remember what viscosities are in general.

KINEMATIC, DYNAMIC AND HTHS

There is a direct relationship between oil viscosity, friction losses and wear rate of the friction unit. In classical hydrodynamics, two characteristics of viscosity are distinguished - dynamic and kinematic. It is the dynamic viscosity of the oil that is important for the motor, since it takes into account the change in density depending on temperature. And kinematic viscosity is important to oilers; it can be accurately determined with a capillary viscometer. Previously, the viscosity parameters prescribed by the SAE class limited only the possible range of change in the kinematic viscosity of the oil at a temperature of 100 ° C. This range for SAE 30 oils is 9.3–12.6 cSt; for SAE 40 oils, it is wider 12.6–16.3 cSt.

The SAE classification has now been supplemented with dynamic viscosity limits at 150°C. This is the so-called high-temperature viscosity HTHS (High-Temperature, High-Shear).

Previously, it was believed that the SAE classification was enough to select the oil, and then it turned out that it was not enough. Oils from the same group at operating temperatures can differ in viscosity by tens of percent, and this is essential for engine operation. Therefore, an additional restriction was introduced.

Manufacturers of modern oils are guided by opposite priorities. Thus, Shell claims the low viscosity of Helix Ultra oil, which predetermines low friction losses. And Motul has specially developed 8100 X-clean FE oil, which has a high HTHS value. Who is right?

To complete the picture, let's go through all temperatures - from winter to fully operating modes, like a fully warmed up engine. The highest values ​​​​of high-temperature viscosity HTHS at the first sample are for Motul 8100 X‑clean FE oil, as promised by the manufacturer: 3.2 mPa s versus 2.7 mPa s for Mobil. Run - almost under 20%! This means that this oil will reduce the load on the bearing by 20% - or it will increase the pressure on the bearing by the same 20% without worsening its working conditions. The payoff for this is the highest values ​​of dynamic viscosity at low temperatures: 8330 mPa s for Motul oil versus 6220 mPa s for Mobil oil. This means that in the Arctic and Antarctic it will be more difficult to start an engine with Motul oil.

However, it is more interesting to trace the dynamics of changes in this parameter during the entire period of testing. Oils Mobil 1 ESP Formula and Motul 8100 X-clean FE for 120 hours of torture by the Russian engine and Russian (not the best, as everyone says) fuel changed their parameters slightly and quite predictably. During the tests, the dynamic viscosity increased by only 3–5% over the entire temperature range.

But Castrol Edge FST and Shell Helix Ultra oils have changed their viscosity by 21-28%! Moreover, the increase in viscosity of Castrol oil began almost immediately - such dynamics is not typical for the usual behavior of the oil. And Shell oil did well until the middle of the tests, but gave up in the second half of the cycle. As a result, by the end of the tests, the advantage that these oils had over Motul oil in terms of viscosity at low temperatures completely melted away. For those who plan to use these oils in harsh northern conditions, there is something to think about.

An analysis of the dynamics of changes in kinematic viscosity at 100 °C provides an even more expressive picture of the rate of aging of oils.

And again: the viscosity of Motul oil practically does not change. For Mobil oil, the change in viscosity is more noticeable, and by the end of the test period, it reached the threshold value. But Castrol produced a very significant increase in viscosity at 100 ° C, jumping far beyond the acceptable limits. The most interesting thing is that the viscosity at 40 °C began to decrease towards the end of the test - this can be seen from the data in the final table. Viscosity index flew as much as 210!

Viscosity index is an important parameter of engine oil, which characterizes the rate of change in viscosity with increasing temperature. The higher it is, the smaller the difference between the viscosities at high temperature and at low. For full synthetics, it usually lies in the range of 160-180.

And one more oddity of Castrol oil. Usually, the alkaline number gradually decreases: a complex of detergent additives is activated. And here on the contrary - growth!

It is possible that calcium or another element returns to the oil from deposits formed in the engine, to which the device reacts. By the way, for the other three oils, the same method gave the expected result.

We evaluated the energy saving of oils twice, comparing both with fresh oil and with 120 engine hours used in our cycle modes. These results are also summarized in tables.

Here again it is appropriate to return to the conversation about HTHS. The oil with the highest HTHS value, Motul 8100 X‑clean FE, performed the best here as well. However, all tested oils, judging by the results, may well be classified as energy-saving. But those with a lower viscosity growth rate had the least change in fuel consumption and engine power after a long test cycle. The influence of high-temperature viscosity was most clearly manifested in the analysis of the protective functions of the oil. An analysis of the content of wear products in oil samples taken at the final stage of testing clearly reveals the undisputed leadership of the oil with high HTHS. This is Motul 8100 X‑clean FE. It is quite understandable: the higher the viscosity - the greater the thickness of the separating layer and less.

Opening the motor after the test cycles showed approximately the same final level of high and low temperature deposits, while more stable oils gave a slightly better result. But in general, all oils in these parameters showed a high result, characteristic of high-quality synthetics.

NOT FOR RUSSIA?

Why did the oils perform differently in the tests? Two of them - Motul 8100 X-clean FE and Mobil 1 ESP Formula - worked without comment, while the other two showed a less optimistic result. The very nature of oil aging, when the viscosity begins to fluctuate, while other parameters generally remain normal, most often indicates that the additives included in the used additive package are in conflict with something.

Starting this examination, we wanted to continue the theme of the “oil plague” that we raised three years ago - the unpredictable decomposition of oil, which forms black tar in the channels of the lubrication system, oil pan, valve mechanism. This disease killed more than one hundred motors. And oilers named Russian gasoline as one of the possible culprits of this disaster. Then we found other causes of the "plague", moreover, confirmed by experiment. But it was necessary to check the version of the influence of bad gasoline.

The solution was found after our examination of cheap 95 gasolines (ZR, 2015, No. 5), during which it turned out that most of them contain banned methanol. This is the kind of gasoline we used for our tests.

Thus, our studies have confirmed that bad gasoline can really ruin the oil, and with it the engine. Yes, but after all, Motul 8100 X‑clean FE and Mobil 1 ESP Formula oils, working on the same gasoline, did not express any claims against it! This means that the additive package can be adjusted in such a way that the oil works normally under our conditions. Another thing is that not everyone succeeds.

In the meantime, we repeat: go around unverified gas stations in a wide circle! When it comes to choosing an engine oil, we advise you to give preference to products with a higher HTHS value.

The motor, nerves and wallet will be more whole!

Fasting consists not only in eating infrequently, but in eating little; and not in eating once, but in not eating much. That fasting is unreasonable, who waits for a certain hour, and at the hour of the meal all indulges in insatiable taste both in body and mind.

Reverend Seraphim of Sarov

Potato salad with garlic

Potatoes, garlic, vegetable oil, vinegar, salt.

Peeled potatoes cut into cubes, boil until half cooked in salted water, drain the water, close the lid and bring to readiness for a couple. Cool the potatoes and put in a salad bowl. Crush the peeled garlic with salt, season with vegetable oil and vinegar, mix, season the potatoes with the resulting sauce, sprinkle with finely chopped green onions.

onion salad

Art. l. rice, 4 medium onions, 10-75 walnuts, 3 tbsp. vegetable oil, 2 tbsp. l. Wine or table vinegar, salt, pepper, carrots.

Bake unpeeled onions in an oven heated to 190 ° C for about 1.5 hours. Cool, peel and finely chop. In a deep frying pan, heat the oil, fry the rice, then add 200 ml of water and simmer it over low heat until cooked, cool. Combine rice with chopped onion and chopped walnuts. Shake oil with vinegar, salt, pepper and pour dressing over salad. Garnish with finely grated raw carrots.

Bean salad 1

100 g of different beans (red, white, etc. - 3-4 varieties), 2 apples, 100 g of chopped green onions, 1 small onion, 1 clove of garlic, parsley, 4 tbsp. l. Vegetable oil, 2 tbsp. l. lemon juice, 1 tsp. mustard, salt, sugar, pepper.

Mix beans and soak overnight. Then cook without salt until tender (30-40 minutes). Cool, finely chop the onion and green onion, mix with chopped herbs, crushed garlic, finely chopped apples. Pour in vegetable oil and lemon juice with sugar, add mustard, salt, pepper, shake well and pour beans with this sauce.

Bean salad 2

100 g beans, 1 carrot, bunch, 1 tbsp. l. parsley, 10 g vegetable oil, 4 g vinegar, 10 olives, salt to taste.

Soak white beans in warm water for 2 hours. Then drain, pour cold water over so that it covers the beans. Cook on low heat.

As soon as the water boils, remove from heat, drain the water and pour fresh boiling water over it. Put on fire again, add onions, parsley, carrots and cook until tender. After that, discard the beans until they have cooled, salt and season with vinegar mixed with vegetable oil. Then add chopped olives and chopped onions.

Mushroom salad with onions

200 g salted or pickled mushrooms, 30 g green or oniononion, 3 tbsp. l. vegetable oil.

Cut the mushrooms into strips, combine with chopped green or onion, season with vegetable oil, mix, put in a salad bowl and garnish with onion rings.

Pickled Mushroom Salad

300 g pickled mushrooms, apple, onion heads, st. l. vegetableoils, salt, ground black pepper, dill.

Cut the mushrooms into strips, onion into rings, grate the apple on a coarse grater. Combine everything, season with salt, pepper, vegetable oil, put in a salad bowl, garnish with onion rings and sprinkle with finely chopped herbs.

Salad "Klukovka"

0.25 head of cabbage, 1 carrot, 1 parsley root, 2-3 tbsp. l. finely chopped green onion, 3-4 tbsp. l. cranberry juice, 2 tbsp. l. dill, 2 tbsp. l. vegetable oil, pepper, salt.

Chop the cabbage into small strips, grate the carrots and parsley root on a coarse grater. Grate chopped cabbage, carrots and roots well with salt, add chopped dill and green onions. Before serving, pour cranberry juice, vegetable oil, pepper.

Russian pickle

Boiled potatoes, sauerkraut, pickles, pickled mushrooms, pickled tomatoes, pickled onions, boiled carrots, greens (you can add other pickles, pickled vegetables and fruits).

Cut potatoes and carrots into circles, cucumbers into slices and circles, cut large mushrooms in half, put the whole tomatoes, cut the onion into rings. Put all products beautifully on a dish, pour with vegetable oil, decorate with herbs.

White mushroom vinaigrette

12-18 large fresh porcini mushrooms, vegetable oil, salted lemon, plums, capers, olives, salt.

Soak the mushrooms, wash them, boil them in salted water, let the water drain, dry a little with a towel, dip in batter, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and fry in vegetable oil. Cool the mushrooms, put on a dish, garnish with salted lemons, plums, capers, olives and pour cold sauce over.

Vinaigrette of salted milk mushrooms, mushrooms and porcini mushrooms

12-18 white mushrooms, milk mushrooms, mushrooms, 2-3 tbsp. l. vegetable oil, 2 tbsp. l. sugar, 1 tsp ready-made mustard, 1 tbsp. l. chopped green onion,capers, salt, pepper, vinegar.

Soak the mushrooms overnight, boil them in salted water, cut them in half, put the porcini mushrooms in the middle of the dish, spread milk mushrooms and mushrooms alternately around, pour over the Provence sauce. For the sauce: grind vegetable oil with salt and sugar, add mustard, a little pepper, dilute with vinegar in half with boiled water, Add chopped capers and green onions to the sauce.

Stuffed beans

150 g beans, 300 g onions, 120 g carrots, 60 g celery, 120 g rice, 750 g sauerkraut, 60 g vegetable oil, red and black groundpepper, red bell pepper, salt.

Boil the beans in water until tender, along with coarsely chopped onions, carrots, celery root. Throw the finished beans in a colander, and then combine with finely chopped onion and fried in vegetable oil, boiled rice, ground red and black pepper, and salt. Mix the mass thoroughly. Disassemble the head of sauerkraut into leaves, roll each leaf with the minced meat put on it in the form of a sausage. Put a layer of chopped sauerkraut on the bottom of the pan, cabbage rolls on top, cover them with whole cabbage leaves, pour in the cabbage brine and part of the broth in which the beans were boiled, and simmer over low heat. Serve cold with red sweet pepper.

Beans (lobio) boiled with wine vinegar

500 g beans, 1/3 tbsp. vegetable oil, 3 onions, 0.5 tbsp. wine vinegar,black pepper, salt.

Boil the beans, drain the broth into a separate bowl. Pour vegetable oil into a frying pan, add chopped onion and sauté. Then add salt, ground black pepper, wine vinegar, mix and simmer for another 2-3 minutes. Then combine with boiled beans, pour 1 tbsp. decoction, give 1-2 minutes. boil and remove from heat.

Beans (lobio) boiled with wine vinegar and nuts

500 g beans, 0.25 - 0.5 tbsp. wine vinegar, 0.5 tbsp. peeled walnuts, 4 sprigs of cilantro, 2 onions, 2 leeks, a clove of garlic, 2 sprigs of parsley, capsicum, salt to taste.

Cook the beans in the usual way. Crush peeled walnuts, cilantro, garlic, capsicum and salt together, dilute with vinegar, add chopped onion, finely chopped leek and parsley. Combine everything with boiled beans and cook for 10 - 15 minutes, then remove from heat and let cool. This dish can be prepared easier: add boiled beans to the resulting mass, mix everything well, put on a plate and sprinkle with finely chopped onions on top.

Beans (lobio) boiled with almonds

600 g red beans, 30 g raisins, 20 g peeled almonds, 20 g honey, salt to taste.

Throw the boiled beans on a sieve, rub with a spoon, transfer to a bowl, salt, add washed raisins, crushed almonds, honey and mix everything well. Then put in a salad bowl and carefully trim with a spoon.

Caviar from bread and garlic

200 g wheat bread, 3 medium heads of garlic, 20 pcs. walnuts,2 tbsp. l. vegetable oil, 75 g lemon juice or table vinegar, salt.

Grind garlic with salt, add chopped walnut kernels and grind again. Squeeze out slices of wheat bread soaked in water and mix with garlic-nut mass. Beat the resulting mass with a wooden spoon, gradually adding vegetable oil until puree is formed, season with lemon juice or table vinegar. Put the caviar in a salad bowl, smooth with a knife.

Carrot caviar

1 kg of carrots, 500 g of onion bunch, 1 tbsp. tomato paste diluted with water1 st. vegetable oil, 5 bay leaves, 3 cloves of garlic, salt and pepper to taste.

Diluted with water to the consistency of thick sour cream, put tomato paste and finely chopped onion in a saucepan, pour in vegetable oil, add bay leaf, salt and simmer until the tomato is boiled down and the onion becomes completely soft. While the onion is stewing, peel the carrots, grate and fry in a pan in a small amount of vegetable oil, adding water so that the carrots are stewed until soft. When the onions and carrots are ready, combine them and, stirring well, put in a heated oven. In the finished caviar, put a few bay leaves, crushed garlic with salt, pepper and, when cool, put in a glass jar. Tie the jar with cellophane or close the lid. Caviar can be stored in the refrigerator for several months.

Pickled cucumber caviar

1 kg_ pickled cucumbers, 200 g onions, 50 g tomato puree, 40 g vegetable oil, salt and pepper to taste.

Finely chop the pickled cucumbers, squeeze the juice from the resulting mass.

Fry finely chopped onions in vegetable oil, add chopped cucumbers and continue to fry over low heat for half an hour, then put the tomato puree and fry all together for another 15-20 minutes. A minute before readiness, season the caviar with ground pepper and salt. In the same way, you can cook caviar from salted tomatoes.

Vegetable caviar

3 beets, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 0.5 tsp. tomato puree, 1 tbsp. n. vegetable oil, citric acid, herbs, salt.

Boil the beets. Cut carrots and onions and sauté, add tomato puree. Pass everything through a meat grinder. Put out the resulting mass. Season with vegetable oil, add citric acid and herbs.

Aspic of dried porcini mushrooms

100 g dried porcini mushrooms, salt.

For jelly : 1 tbsp. l. (with top) gelatin, 2 tbsp. water, 3 tbsp. mushroom decoction.

Boil the mushrooms, drain through a sieve, chop, pour into a salad bowl. Pour gelatin with water, heat until completely dissolved, avoiding boiling, combine with hot mushroom broth. Measure the volume and, if it turns out to be less than 5 tablespoons, add boiling water. Salt, pour mushrooms, mix, let cool and refrigerate.

Aspic of carrots and green sugar peas

400 g carrots, 200 g dried green peas (400 g freshly peeled),Art. l. (without top) gelatin, dill, parsley, salt.

Chop the carrots and boil in salted water, put in a salad bowl, strain the broth. Pour peas for 6 hours with water, boil in it, strain the broth. Mix carrots and peas, add chopped greens, mix. Combine decoctions. Gelatin pour 2 tbsp. decoction, heat until completely dissolved, without boiling. The volume of liquid should be 2.5 tbsp. (if not enough, add hot broth or boiling water).

Salt, pour peas with carrots, mix, when it cools down, refrigerate.

Jellied cauliflower

Cauliflower, salt.

For jelly:1 st. l. gelatin, 2.5 tbsp. vegetable broth.

Boil the cabbage in a small amount of salted water, cut into thin slices, put in a salad bowl. Strain the broth, pour gelatin 2.5 tbsp. hot broth, heat until completely dissolved, without boiling, and pour over the cabbage. Let cool, refrigerate.

Potato jelly

12-15 potatoes, 2-3 onions, 3-4 tbsp. l. vegetable oil, 10-12 garlic cloves, 0.5 tbsp. boiled water, salt, ground pepper, herbs (you can use dried herbs).

Boil the peeled potatoes. Drain the broth, rub the hot potatoes, add the fried onions, ground pepper and dilute the prepared potatoes to the consistency of thick sour cream with vegetable oil.

Put the mass on a plate with a layer of 4-5 cm. Level the surface, apply a wave-like pattern with a spoon and refrigerate for 2-3 hours.

Sprinkle chilled potato jelly with finely chopped herbs. Serve the garlic dressing separately. For dressing: grind garlic with salt, pour boiled water, add ground pepper.

apple chutney

100 g raisins, 1 small onion, 2 apples, 3 tbsp. l. lemon juice, 1 tbsp. l. honey, 1 tsp mustard, salt, pepper.

Cut the apples, put them together with all the other ingredients in a bowl and beat everything with a mixer until a homogeneous mass is formed. Lastly, salt and pepper to taste. Keep refrigerated.

Apple-Orange Relish

3 apples, 2 oranges, 1 small onion, 0.5 lemons, 1 bay leaf,salt, sugar, pepper, cinnamon, cloves.

Sliced ​​apples, oranges, onions, bay leaves, zest from 0.5 lemons and lemon juice put in a saucepan and simmer until the apples are soft. Then salt, pepper, add spices, if necessary, sugar, mix. Keep refrigerated.

Such a sauce can be made from any jam, heating it to a liquid state and adding finely chopped onion, garlic, salt, pepper, lemon zest, lemon juice, mustard to it so that the mass is sweet and sour and spicy (burned the tongue). If you want to get chutney - break everything with a mixer, if it's real - leave it as it is, in pieces.

Apple and green pea paste

500 g green peas (frozen or canned), 1 onion, 2 large sweet and sour apples, vegetable oil.

Frozen peas should be boiled in a small amount of water (4-5 minutes). Finely chop the onion and apples and sauté them in oil in a frying pan until soft. Combine the peas with apples and onions and make a puree with a mixer. Hold for another 2-3 minutes. on low fire.

“To this your daily action, to eating and drinking, pay the most strict and active attention, because a lot of your spiritual, social and family activity depends on food and drink, on the quality and quantity of them.”

Holy Righteous John of Kronstadt